“Laksa in the Bahasa Indonesia means 10 thousand (sepuluh ribu) , reference to the many strands of white vermicelli noodles in the dish. Alternatively, the expression could also be derived from the Chinese word “La Sha” or “Lat Sa” meaning spicy sand, perhaps the sandy texture of the gravy is attributed from the grounded hae bi (dried shrimps) sediments”

Wah lao ay, today we’ll be talking about the big “L”, the all time national favorite and much talked about Laksa. I too have an overbearing passion for laksa and feels that those who don’t should be caned, lactose intolerant or not. For the past 2 decade, news of the infamous laksa war along East Coast and Ceylon Road was like major media fodder in papers and on the TV. The entire intersection was infested by stalls after stalls of laksa shop, armed with all sorts of newspaper and magazine cutting, dubious certificates and photos taken with famous peeps while proclaiming their version to be the original. Stories of the feverish fiasco was like a chapter from The Empire Strikes Back loaded with tales of squabbles, greed, betrayal and probably food fights. Though things have pretty much simmered down after most bootleg versions succumbing to the trials of time and taste, many folks are left scratching their head, still wondering as to which is the authentic store.

Being the center of this drama mama spectacle, Janggut Laksa (Previously known as Marine Parade Laksa) is commonly regarded as an archetype of the famous Katong Laksa. Helmed by Madam Ng and her brothers who acquired the nyonya laksa recipe from their father, affectionately known as Janggut (spot bearded), the originator or basically the James Brown of Katong Laksa. Armed with belachan, buah keras (candlenuts), turmeric, lemongrass, fresh coconut milk ( Apparently there’re some frauds out there who tries to pull a fast one with condense milk, I think they should be caned too), ginger and dried shrimps, you can definitely trust the Peranakans to conjure up a wicked unification of spices. Currently Janggut Laksa operates from Roxy Square after shifting away from Celyon Road which has already been typecast as a laksa joint.

Typically, Laksa comes in two permutations; the tamarind-based assam laksa and the coconut-based laksa lemak with the latter being the better received version which Janggut Laksa serves. Moments after placing your order, you’ll get the dish served in a ceramic rooster bowl with a soup spoon. The thick beehoon is thoughtfully cut to allow easy scooping with a spoon, hence the lack of chopsticks. (All these prepared with a homemade coconut husk spatula used to sieve the vermicelli and ladling the gravy. Maybe they cast the metal gravy urn themselves and probably built the shop front with their bare hands.) Topped with sliced prawns and fishcakes, the fare is drenched in thick savory pale yellow gravy with even traces of orangey chilli oil. Its then complete with a dollop of chilli and a sprinkle of daun kesom (water pepper plant) or simply laksa leaves. Compared to its other famous laksa siblings like Sungei Road Laksa and the Depot Road Claypot Laksa, Janggut’s style is more luscious and definitely lemak. For those of you whose wondering when the cockles are coming in, there aren’t any by default. Upon request, the cockles would be lightly blanched separately (to avoid tainting the whole urn of laksa gravy with see hum stock) and placed by the corner of the bowl.

Considering the celebrity-like status of Katong Laksa, I’m sure most folks have savored the awesomeness of this dish and some pirated version along the way. Else, take a trip down Roxy Square and appreciate this heavenly goodness. Unless you’re still stuck at the Singapore Flyer.

PS: Other branch at Blk 128 Bedok North Street 2, #01-02, Singapore 460128 and 1 Queensway Shopping Centre, #01-59, Singapore 149053

-Darth Sidtoh